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Sunday, July 11, 2021

Memento Vivere


TUSCANY




Italy always seemed dreamy to me.  Different than how Germany and France have their particular allure and beauty.  Maybe my imagination got the best of me because it took me so long to get there.   I have often wondered what it would be like to finally taste its' magnificent food, wander the hills of Tuscany, see the Vatican, Lake Como and hike the Dolomites....... and finally see with my own eyes the works of Michelangelo and Leonardo and many of their friends.  To feel the history would be amazing....Italy has been on my bucket list forever.  It no longer is... I finally made it.

It was actually dreamier than I thought it could be....

I have always loved Italian food.  I just love red sauce and pasta as a starting place.  Then there is so much more to experience beyond it's culinary delights.  Architecture, art, geography and history to name a few...

"Under the Tuscan Sun" has been a fun favorite of mine.  Diane Lane was great in the role.  The idea that a tourist can buy an aging villa spontaneously while on vacation and then have these amazing experiences fixing it up and meeting interesting people I am sure has caused many viewers to fantasize of doing the same.  I can now say that it is magnified 10X after actually being in Tuscany first hand.
 
The other one, is "Gladiator", which is one of my all time favorite movies.  Russel Crowe's character is from Tuscany.  Many of the dream sequences from the movie showed this rustic countryside, elegantly dressed with fields of gold wheat, Cyprus lined cart paths and medieval looking villas on tops of hills.

The movie definitely whetted my appetite considerably.  But, I have also longed to see original works of the masters--Michelangelo, Leonardo, Donatello, Raphael etc....  

These movies do a wonderful job of showing the region of Tuscany in particular.  While there is much more to write about Italy,  Tuscany has its' own brand of magic. 

Val D'Orcia

I am hard pressed to only write a few words about this place.  There aren't enough words to describe it's medieval haunting beauty.  It is best experienced by car or bike.  To roam the hills is extraordinary.  To go off the beaten track is exquisite.  We did both! 

One experience that became a catalyst to see Italy was the movie "Gladiator".  It struck me on many levels, but one scene that was particularly striking that left a lingering memory was a dream sequence when Russell Crowe, sees himself walking through fields of gold on his way back to his villa in Tuscany.  The incredible soundtrack from Hans Zimmer and vocals from Lisa Gerrard are still at the top of my all time favorite list.  I remember thinking, I must see Tuscany.   


As we drove south into the region from Florence we came across this small grove of cyprus trees off to the side of the road.  Two cars had stopped there and people were taking pictures.  We decided to stop too.  They looked local so we knew something was cool about this place.  We just happened to come across this very well known old, old grove of trees that was protected with a fence around them.  They were unusually placed without any other trees close by and they just looked amazing.  

Landon had brought his vintage polaroid camera and took this shot which gave this image such and distinctive timeless old look.  Google Val D'Orcia and you will see more images.

The trees looked strong, but isolated at the same time.  This valley is full of all kinds of treasures like these trees.




We came across this incredible structure minutes after getting our e-bikes.
Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta.  A very small little church in the middle of nowhere. It is quaint and sits atop a hill overlooking the valley.  So simple and unassuming you forget how famous it is.

The e-bike adventures was a very unique and special way to see this valley.s



It was amazing to finally be there.  It was everything I imagined but more.  The drive through Tuscany from Florence was incredible. 

We explored and wandered down fields like this of lavender and gold, hills filled with Cyprus trees lined driveways to medieval villas dotting the landscape.   And to think this is their farmlands.  Compared to the classic red barn and corn fields of Nebraska, it just didn't even seem fair.




“Melancholy skies

and empty fields of gold

grey clouds

and emeralds days

our love in pieces

captured only by poems (of mine).”

― Laura Chouette



I never thought I would find the exact spot where that scene was shot, and I didn't really think I would find myself in fields of gold re-enacting that dream walk of his.    But I did!  With Landon's help, he located the spot near a small town called Pienza.  It was a bit of a walk but so worth it.  As soon as we came upon it it was recognizable.  It was a very cool feeling to be there at about 8pm, near dusk, so quiet, very warm and incredibly picturesque.

We were the only ones there....It was one of those timeless moments where you can sit and soak for a long time.  

There was only one more thing to do.....to complete the moment, to 'matar' the 'saudade' once and for all....


..... Which was to wade out there and pretend to be Russell Crowe for just a minute.  Ha!  So silly but really romantic in an idealistic way.  I had to do it right?  I really dressed well for the occasion too I think.

Landon took the shot and closed the deal.... 

 I will always be glad for that mad dash run/hike to find it before the sun set.  Pretty sure I would have passed if Landon hadn't made it happen. 

Thanks Landon for helping me crush a timeless moment and making a small fantasy come true!




We ended the day finding this really small, hole in the medieval wall restaurant in Pienza.  We ate some food that I don't think we would find anywhere else and this was filled with locals while many other restaurants were empty due to the ravages of COVID.

It was one of the most pleasant and spiritually renewing days I have had.  It is pretty hard when reality actually beats out the imagination.  That rarely occurs but it did happen on this day to me.




Cyrpus trees stand like sentinels on the hillside as if guarding something sacred from the past. Constantly watching, constantly aware, constantly maintaining vigil.




“Pilgrims"

Tuscan reds and ochre hues
Olive greens and skies of blue
Sunlit valleys full of charm
Secluded homestead and hilltop farm

Over hills skim birds in flight
Aromas whet the appetite
Autumn rustle fills the air
Revealing grace of trees laid bare

Pathways meander through the vale
Inviting travelers its height to scale
Sunset rewards as evening ends
And pilgrims to the night descend”
― Collette O'Mahony,





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